Initial Startup Checks(Oct/29)
Last updated
Last updated
Start by verifying that temperatures are being properly reported. Navigate to the Mainsail temperature graph.
Verify that the nozzle and bed temperatures are displaying correctly and are not increasing. If the temperatures continue to rise, disconnect the printer from power. If the temperatures are inaccurate, the issue may be due to wiring or hardware faults.
Navigate to the temperature graph and type in 50 followed by enter in the “Tool” temperature target field. The extruder temperature in the graph should start to increase (within about 10 seconds or so). Then go to the “Tool” temperature drop-down box and select “Off”. After several minutes the temperature should start to return to its initial room temperature value. If the temperature does not increase, Please check the wiring.
Nozzle Preload and Filament Leakage Notice
During the initial setup of your Rapido 2.0 hotend, please be aware that some nozzles may have insufficient preload, which can cause filament leakage during printing. To prevent this, it is recommended to retighten the nozzle after the first heating of the hotend.
The kit includes two nozzles: a 0.4mm copper-plated (silver) nozzle and a pre-installed 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle. Ensure that you configure the correct nozzle diameter in both the printer.cfg file and your slicing software. Incorrect settings may result in under-extrusion or over-extrusion.
Perform the above steps again with the bed.
To verify that each stepper motor is operating correctly, send the following command in the terminal:
STEPPER_BUZZ STEPPER=stepper_x
The STEPPER_BUZZ command will cause the given stepper to move one millimeter in a positive direction and then it will return to its starting position. It will perform this oscillation ten times. we will verify direction again later, ideally all motors will be running correctly at the end of this test. See the list below for the expected motion for each command.
Note, if you have trouble seeing what direction a motor is rotating, try adding a small sharpy mark on the pulley. clockwise and counterclockwise are from the top down view looking at the X and Y motors.
Run this command for each of the motors:
If the specified motor is not turning, please check the wiring and ensure that it is connected to the correct port.
Make sure that none of the X, Y endstops are being pressed. Then send a QUERY_ENDSTOPS
command. The terminal window should respond with the following:
If any of them say “triggered” instead of “open”, double-check to make sure none of them are pressed. Next, manually press the X endstop switch, send the QUERY_ENDSTOPS
command again, and make sure that the X endstop says “triggered and the Y s stay open. Repeat with the Y endstops.
If it is found that one of the endstops has inverted logic (i.e. it reads as “open” when it is pressed and “triggered” when not pressed), Check if the Endstop is properly installed, the cables are secure and not damaged, and if they are connected to the correct port.
At this point everything is ready to home X and Y.
Important: You need to be able to quickly stop the printer in case something goes wrong (e.g. the tool head goes the wrong direction). There are a few ways of doing this:
There is a red emergency stop icon in the lower left corner of the display. Click on it to see what happens—Klipper should shut down, but the Raspberry Pi and Mainsail should remain running, although disconnected from Klipper. Press "Connect" in the upper left corner of Mainsail, then send a FIRMWARE_RESTART
command in the Mainsail terminal window to reboot the printer and get it running again.
Have a computer right next to the printer with the RESTART
or M112
command already in the terminal command line in Mainsail. When you start homing the printer, if it goes in the wrong direction, quickly send the restart command and it will stop the printer.
As a “nuclear” option, power off the printer with the power switch if something goes wrong. This is not ideal because it may corrupt the files on the SD card and to recover would require reinstalling everything from scratch.
Once you have a testing procedure for stopping the printer in case of an issue, you can proceed to test the X and Y movements. Note: You need to test both X and Y to accurately determine what adjustments are necessary. First, send a G28 Y
command. This will home the Y-axis only: the tool head should move to the back of the printer until it hits the Y endstop. Next, test the X-axis by sending a G28 X
command; the tool head should move to the right.
Why move the Y-axis before the X-axis? Due to the AWD structure, the platform loses a portion of the area at the front on both sides. If the tool head home while near the front, it may collide with the motor.
Not moving in the expected direction?
Check that the XY motor cable and extension cable wire sequence are consistent, check that the extension cable is plugged into the port of the MANTA M8P and that the wire sequence is in the same order as shown in the wiring diagram, if not, adjust the wire sequence.
Not only is it not moving in the expected direction, but it is also making a strong noise and shaking?
Repeat the Check Motor Operation procedure to ensure that all motors are turning in the direction shown in the documentation.
Note: If you are from the first batch of pre-sales or if your shipment was before August 29, 2024, please update your configuration. Copy the following settings and overwrite the existing fan configuration in printer.cfg
before testing.
To add the following code to the CANCEL_PRINT
and PRINT_END
macros to turn off specific fans when the print is canceled or ends, you can update your printer.cfg
file as follows:
This will ensure that fan0
, fan2
, and fan3
are turned off when a print is canceled or ends. Make sure to integrate these commands with the existing logic in your macros.
Identify all the fans inside the machine and check if the configured pins match the actual ones.
In the first batch of kits, the Driver_fan's wiring might be too short to reach the PF8 pin. You can move it to the PA4 fan port on the right and update the PF8 configuration in printer.cfg
to PA4.(Don't forget to plug in the 24V jumper.)
Check Hotend_fan
Heat the hotend to above 50°C and check if the Hotend_fan is rotating correctly. When you stop heating and the temperature drops below 50°C, the fan will automatically turn off.
Check Controller_fan
Heat the heated bed to above 50°C and check if the Controller_fan starts rotating. When you stop heating and the temperature drops below 50°C, the fan will automatically turn off.
Check Driver_fan
Send the G28 X
command, and after the X Stepper starts, observe if the Driver_fan begins to rotate. After turning off the motor using the M84
command, the fan will continue to run for 90 seconds before stopping.
Check Other fan
The Part cooling Blower, Auxiliary Part cooling Blower, and Fume_Pack can be directly controlled in Miscellaneous for on/off and speed settings. We will also configure them in the slicing software so that they can be activated when necessary.
Move nozzle to the center of the bed and approximately 5-10mm above the bed surface, then run:
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=100
It will perform a PID calibration routine that will last about 10 minutes. Once it is finished, type SAVE_CONFIG
which will save the parameters into your configuration file.
Set the part cooling fans to 25% (M106 S64
) and then run:
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=245
It will perform a PID calibration routine that will last about 5 minutes. Once it is finished, type SAVE_CONFIG
which will save the parameters into your configuration file.
October 29, 2024, Note: We have already upgraded the Cartographer Probe to Survey Touch mode in the previous section. If you have not yet completed this update, please follow this tutorial: Survey Touch Mode Update Guide.
Home the machine in X and Y:
Position the nozzle in the center of the bed. You will need to adjust the coordinates for your machine.
At this point, you might note that your Endstop Z is TRIGGERED, this is normal, and will be resolved once you run the next command.
Start the calibration process:
Visit here for an explanation of CARTOGRAPHER_TOUCH
You can either use the web interface to adjust the nozzle height from the bed, or TESTZ Z=-0.01
to lower it. Use a piece of paper or a feeler gauge to measure the offset. Once finished remove the paper/gauge and accept the position.
Save the results to your config file.
Home your printer.
You can test the accuracy.
You can also measure the backlash of your Z axis
To make use of the backlash estimation that is given. You will get results spit out starting with
In this line will be a measurement called "delta" Take note of the value. Locate the configuration section marked:
The Trident uses automated bed leveling using 3 motors. There is a macro Z_TILT_ADJUST
built into Klipper for that function. It is very similar to the QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL
used by V2, but supports 3 or more motors. Run the Z_TILT_ADJUST
and it will probe each of the 3 points 3 times, average the readings, then make adjustments until the gantry is level.
If youa re using a printer which supports either Z_TILT
you will need to ensure that your probe is positioned above the bed when performing this, open up your printer.cfg
and find the appropriate section, for example your Z_TILT section may look like this:
Check the z_tilt
speed. The initial parameter speed is too fast, which may cause missed steps. Please adjust the speed to 300.
You should in your console navigate to each point to ensure that your probe is not hanging off the edge, you can do this using a G0
command such as G0 X50 Y25
for point 1, or G0 X50 Y250
for point 2.
If at all points, Cartographer is safely over the bed, you should be good to go for running a Z_TILT
.
Perform a homing.
If using a printer that requires Quad Gantry Level or Z Tilt Adjust, perform that.
Once that is finished, do another home or G28 Z
Initiate a threshold scan. This will determine your threshold for cartographer. The threshold will determine how much force is required to touch your bed consistently.
Start by doing the generic scan
Visit here for an explanation of CARTOGRAPHER_THRESHOLD_SCAN
This should start a touch process that will move the toolhead into a starting position and then lower until it touches the bed, repeating itself. Its okay if at first it doesnt touch the bed at all, this is completely normal. It will eventually start touching.
If however you get a final IDEAL result and it didnt touch the bed, start the process again OR adjust the parameters as follows where MIN= the found threshold value of the false positive.
Once it finds an excellent or ideal threshold and you've seen the nozzle touching the bed. It will stop this process and move on.
Now do a touch calibration with the new threshold.
If everything went correctly the touch test should pass and you can now finish by saving these variables to your config.
You can now run a Bed Mesh Calibration (I would advise doing either a Z_TILT
.
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
Before modifying your Z Offset, make sure that you have set your Z position to 0, to do this you can run the following command.
G1 Z0 F1500
Once you have done all of the above, it is worth re-calibrating the Z-Offset. This can be done in Mainsail or Fluidd using the graphical interface. OR you can use G-Code in the window to console to do
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=+0.01 MOVE=1
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.01 MOVE=1
Once the offset has been perfectly calibrated apply that offset using the following command
Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE
And now save your config.
Before the first print, make sure that the extruder extrudes the correct amount of material.
First, make sure the extruder is running the correct direction: heat the hotend, and extrude 10mm or so of filament:
If the extruder pulls the filament in, all is well.
If the filament gets pushed back out the top, , reverse the extruder in your printer.cfg by finding the [extruder]
dir_pin
, and adding a !
to the pin name. (if one is already present, remove it instead)
With the hotend at temperature, make a mark on the filament between the roll of filament and your extruder, between 120mm and 150mm away from the entrance to the extruder. Measure the distance from the entrance of the extruder to that mark.
In Mainsail, set the extrusion speed to 1mm/s, and extrude 50mm 2 times, (for a total of 100mm since Klipper doesn’t allow you to extrude more than 50mm at a time).
Measure from the entrance of your extruder to the mark you made previously.
In a perfect world, assuming the mark was at 120mm, it would measure 20mm (120mm - 20mm = 100mm), but usually won’t be.
Update rotation_distance
in the extruder section of the configuration file using this formula:
New Config Value = Old Config Value * (Actual Extruded Amount/Target Extruded Amount)
Note: a higher configuration value means that less filament is being extruded.
Paste the new value into the configuration file, restart Klipper, and try again. Once the extrusion amount is within 0.5% of the target value (ie, 99.5-100.5mm for a target 100mm of extruded filament), the extruder is calibrated!
Typical rotation_distance
values should be around 22.6789511 for Stealthburner
Name | Specifications | PIN | Startup method |
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